The cutter and guide; by Koch Augustus

Author:Koch, Augustus. [from old catalog]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: Tailoring
Publisher: Poughkeepsie, N.Y.
Published: 1883-03-25T05:00:00+00:00

PLATE, X

THE CUTTER AND GUIDE.

21

Coat. Mark out fi'oni V, to front, (say 3 inches, more or less), the same amount from Y. to front, and draw the front line by these marks. Then measure in from V', ?r inch less than we^iave marked outside, also the same amount from Y, in, and di'aw a line for tlie Buttons.

Tl]e Brock Overcoat.

This stvle of coits is drafted in the sanr> minner

as shown in Diagrams A, and B, without any change whatever, except tlie measurement, Avhich should be taken over the body coat.

The one-fourth of Y,, and B, whicli we have applied in Diagram K, from B, to F, is in Sack Coats only. Bear this in mind, and no alteration will be needed.

PLATE X.

SHOWING THE DRAFT OF THE INVERIVESS CAPE, WITH OR WIT HOLT SLEEVES

AXD ALSO

HOW TO PRODUCE THE THREE-QUARTJER C1R€L,E OR CAPE.

This style of Over Coats, known as the Inverness •"iape, have been in demand for quite a number of years, and although the fashion has drawn the garment out of style, it is still worn by some, and will be so for some time to come, because it is the most comfortable garment for traveling purposes ever gotten iip.

Now this style of Over Coats are generally drafted by graduated scales, and the result, no dottbt, some have experienced. AYe find that all patterns drafted by scales will be above 38 breast, a number of sizes too large for the breast for which they are intended. The only way to overcome the difficulty is to draft out the pattern by actual measurement, and in the same manner as we do in Fkock and Sack Coats.

The Measurement.

This is the same as in frock and sack coats, and shotild be taken over the under coat, except breast and waist, whicli should be taken over the vest in this style of coats.

We suppose now that the measures are as follows :

4-i 20 21 32 31 28 24

18"

36

33

Inches Length of Coat. " Back balance.

Front " Sleeve length. " Cape

" Arm depth measure. " Shoulder "

" Shoulder Regulator measure.

" Neck measure. Breast Waist The Ornt't of Diagrani E.

Draw a line in centre of back as from O to "W— square out from O to Y—from O to A, front balance, 21 inches—square out from A to front line— now from A to C, one-half of shoulder measure, 12 inches, square C, line up to top—from C to B, one-half of A and C, six inches—square B line up to D. The distance which we now have from A, to B, is 18 inches.

Now take one-fourth of A and C, or 3 inchc^ and apply this, from 0 to I—then from D to J— also from D to K. Square these lines as shown in Diagi'am. Then mark from J to G, one-sixth of breast, which is the same amount, in this case, as from D to J, 3 inches—square out to Z. Having this, then mark F, in centre of O and D—square F line down—then E, in centre of D and F, and make a mark.

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